Morandi, New York

Overall: Good meal, busy room.
Price: $48 incl. wine

Maybe foodies felt it was time to take a swing at Keith McNally. Morandi has suffered an avalanche of poor reviews, so I was apprehensive when I went there for dinner. In fact, we had a solid experience, from the Italian-ish food to the service. In particular, a bruschetta with sweet, creamy ricotta and the delicate porcini ravioli were enjoyed by all, and desserts like a vanilla-cream-filled crespelle were devoured quickly. The only issue in the low-slung space is the noise volume, as critical snubs have done nothing to discourage the crowds streaming in. We actually saw McNally on our way out, so at least he's not a restauranteur (or chef) who only opens restaurants in name...